I just moved to up north for school and got lucky enough find my self surfing some of the best waves of my life. Its been a month now, Day after day equals barrel after barrel. At first it was scary, and cold. I was way under gunned and had no idea where I was supposed to paddle out. No one was in the water, and it was a solid double over head, but perfect, and slightly offshore. Why was nobody out? Finally I had to commit. Lucky me. This photo was followed by a thrashing and Ice cream head ache from hell.
